First of all let me assure you that I will not bore you with a kind of lesson boring and pedantic. As the first post of this blog will do just a quick trip into fashion in the days of ancient Rome, going a bit back and forth over the centuries, just to give an idea of \u200b\u200bthe topics.
But first I want to talk of what led me to these pages and that is of historical reconstruction: for those who feel like something important is to be taken with due seriousness and with due care. The reconstruction is something that goes beyond the copy of a statue or a painting the picture that we see, it means trying to give new life to a particular historical period studying everything from the most insignificant details to the great historical evidence.
This is an effort and philological research involving various fields: one can not separate the real acting within the research of the different types of cloth taken historical era in question, the type of dyes were used, the type of weaving and sewing, in studying the application of that kind of slave to that particular work, the economy leading to a type of import rather than another and so on. These are all things linked to each other that only together can justify a real historical reconstruction, and to get a good result you should try to be as faithful as possible to the reality of time, but otherwise is fatuous all the work.
Let's start by saying that talking about fashion in ancient Rome is perhaps a bit 'too generic as well: generic, Rome's history is long and each period has its specific powers that allowed new imports and thus implements fashion itself, too, because the word fashion shows variations in the use of clothing for a long time there have been.
actually cutting the typical Roman dress, for a long, long time, it was a simplicity and homogeneity between males and females to be disarming, except that there were many other special features which then used it in a very head symbolic and representative.
In the first period of Roman history, to almost 500 BC, Rome lived in its products as well as the limited achievements of the neighboring territories, and the availability of tissues was limited. The fabrics were of sheep's wool or vegetable fibers local wound with a skill that still leaves surprised, achieving a lightness stunning fabrics that were not a hindrance even in summer.
The cloth was a very well researched, especially if well-crafted, and the price also quite high, so often the clothes available were few and sewn directly by the owner, the matron, or where this was used by slave to this.
To this end, the cuts on the fabric was reduced to a minimum to maximum use of the patch available, which was used almost entirely in its width, to package the set of clothes that you need.
The clothing of the period were:
1. for the man tunic, of two types,
* subucula and the exterior, with leather tunic brought to you slept well and that was the underwear
* the toga which originates from the Greek cloak refine and develop the symbolic use as far as buying power to indicate the true Roman.
2. For the woman and a little more difficult to list, but we see in particular what it is. * A
skin, women wore a strophium (the Greek) or mamillary , or pectoralis fascia, a kind of bra, and subligar, a kind of loincloth used by men and women, although it seems to have been worn more than other baths. *
tunic, very similar to male but with a neck circular or V-and extending as far below the left knee tunics in the cold periods of the year could be even two or three, always type subucula, that is intimate or skin, could have a little piece of the sleeve, even if such use of the sleeve seems rather late. * Over
you could put a amictus, a surcoat that was going to hide his clothes and intimate that it was very similar to but longer tunic.
* In early Rome the women wore the toga as men, as reported by Varro in one of his writings, but soon came the costumes and the distinguished toga was imposed only on women as a sign of immodesty or loose morals.
* Above this was placed the stole: a long and wide was a kind seamless tube of fabric on top. It was fastened to the shoulders and arms with cameos and brooches, which also helped the voluminous folds, which covered and decorated the woman's body. The stole was a piece of clothing that showed the rank of the wearer was wealthy and most decorated and most who took her order and was high class. At its edge was placed a rim, the Institute, but for which you know the presence but not the thickness, as some authors refer to it as a tenuous sorting while others qualify as longa.
* To model the stole on the body to use an cingulum, a belt that could be made of cloth, leather or natural fibers, smooth or decorated with semiprecious stones or metal objects, especially in the late Roman period, and passing around the body and stared at the scarf around the breasts and shape the figure. The seat belt use was absolutely required, so that only criminals and prostitutes were using (and they were scantily defined ) while he was relieved the pregnant (pregnant fact) but still often resorted to a strip of tissue taken under the breasts, also known as zone. * To cover all
Finally, the outputs, the matron of the period more remote could use the ricinium, a simple square cloak he carried over his shoulders, and perhaps on the head. This garment was in time replaced by ball. * The folds of
were basic, but more important were the folds of ball, a rectangular cut of cloth that covered the woman completely, including the head, and which surrounds the body with different folds and returns required to arms. It was very important and rich, so that often a slave was employed to care of the folds of the fabric even when the matron was a walk to avoid all be spoiled and become inconvenient.
As I said before, the stuff from which all this was the initial stroke was made of sheep's wool or some vegetable fibers, including one local species of flax cultivated by the Etruscans, and was processed more or less severe depending on the period in which he was to be worn.
With the progress of the Roman conquests were many fabrics that went to add to these, and were especially requested by the highest social classes. First came the linen from Egypt, and with the imperial era arrived in the tissues of cotton and silk, because both expensive imported directly from India and China. In colder regions, which are also used fur coats are packaged or beading, or felt, both in shoes and hats to clothing.
always remember, however, that the fabrics were a valuable asset and, therefore, apart from not having a large number of leaders and often, in the case of less wealthy families, the weaving their paintings, only the rich had the guise of refined fabrics, only the noble family of the Emperor or the wealthy could afford silk or Indian cotton, while the other wealthy families had to settle for linen, which was more expensive than cheap.
The commoners, however, the middle class or lower middle and had worked fine wool, or hemp, which were also made the tunics for the slaves, or jute. Let
to consider the colors that were used in clothing.
In the Republican era, the only colors that can be found are those of natural tissues and the colors of wool wash and fill with special procedure using ammonia in them.
With the progress of the achievements, there is an enrichment in this field, both for the study and use of substances in the area, as they teach the Etruscans (and they were considered the most versed in fashion), extremely rich in decorations and of accessories, both for the import of substances that those tissues. The color
prince in Roman history, and it is understood that the description also gave the color was purple, imported by the Phoenicians, and its preparation requires the processing of a particular shellfish, the Meurice, but needed large amounts of animals to produce a small amount of color. For this reason the clavus, the purple color band indicating membership in a particular order, it was something extremely expensive to obtain.
fabric dyeing was practiced mainly in the Middle East, although with different characteristics: the true masters of the dye were the Egyptians, who dyed linen with colors derived from different plants: the henna, the color of which was also used in cosmetics to dye your hair, safflower, which were obtained from the yellow and red, saffron, which gave life to yellow in varying degrees, while the blue was extracted from certain species of Indigofera from lapis lazuli and some salts. The Chinese
silk dyed with safflower (yellow and red), blueberry (blue and purple), the sumac (yellow) and indigo, but also with other natural colors whose provenance is still a fascinating mystery.
Ancient Italic peoples were aware of dyeing techniques using commercial traffic: so, Tarantino became experts in dyeing with purple and oricello, a lichen, the Etruscans used madder, crayon, the ford and saffron .
In Rome, abandoned the crude austerity of the founding fathers of the Republic, in the second century BC, the dye was so advanced that there were different guilds depending on the substances used for dyeing textiles: the Crocearii (yellow) Violarii the (purple), the Officinae Purpurinae (purple).
The colors most commonly used in Rome were made from the blue, mauve, yellow, made from Reseda, turmeric and broom, browns and blacks, derived from walnut.
In the most recent period, you buy the use to decorate the edges of the balls with tone on tone designs, geometric motifs, animals or human bodies, but stylized, while the rich have always had the ability to use edges decorated with wires gold and silver but only the edges.
finally shut with a quick overview on the types of footwear used.
You should always think that the fashion of the Romans from the beginning was strongly influenced by both Greeks and Etruscans, two populations far more advanced in style and quickly absorbed by the nascent Roman culture.
The skin had a thriving regional during processing so as to require the presence of a corporation, that of Coriarii, a prelude of what will then form back into the Middle Ages. The Coriarii were specialized in tanning with various substances, such as alum, various fats and vegetable matter.
The Romans were the first shoes of Solae, primitive sandals made from leather soles fastened to the leg to fix and which later became the home as Socci shoes, hiking boots of felt. Then
taste became more sophisticated, and the Romans used to exit the Calcei, high-heeled shoes, with a thickness of about 5cm, with uppers of soft leather that covered the entire foot. The sides of each sole party of the broad stripes that were crossed and knotted on the back foot while others were more subtle heel and wrap ankle where they were tied with the ends hanging decorated with ivory jewelry, crescent-shaped.
Women often wear a kind of flip-flops, like the krepis Greek sandals or alternatively, the crepidulae, adopted especially by the upper classes and trained by a series of strips of leather that covered the entire foot and ankle in Depending on the richness and elevation of rank could be more or less decorated, even up to have the soles of gold or silver. Also wore shoes similar to flat shoes, without heels. Another type of sandals were urinae, cowhide fill.
Farmers and commoners wore clogs or perones, sole shoes without heel, leather upper with high ankle tied to the back of the foot and buckles with strings and that could be worn barefoot or with a kind of felt socks.
proletarian slaves and wore wooden clogs, the sculpoeae, while the peasants could have also Adonis, rectangular blocks with long leather straps that ensured the calves protected by pieces of wool or felt.
At the time of the late empire matrons adopted the golden sandals or boots with calf leather fastened.
The Roman shoes could be polished with beeswax and colored with saffron for yellow, iron salts or tannins for black, woad (Isatis tinctoria) for blue and purple or oricello (Rocella tinctoria) to red (typical footwear most luxurious).
The uppers were sewn together with linen and soles with leather straps, twisted sinew or gut.
But first I want to talk of what led me to these pages and that is of historical reconstruction: for those who feel like something important is to be taken with due seriousness and with due care. The reconstruction is something that goes beyond the copy of a statue or a painting the picture that we see, it means trying to give new life to a particular historical period studying everything from the most insignificant details to the great historical evidence.
This is an effort and philological research involving various fields: one can not separate the real acting within the research of the different types of cloth taken historical era in question, the type of dyes were used, the type of weaving and sewing, in studying the application of that kind of slave to that particular work, the economy leading to a type of import rather than another and so on. These are all things linked to each other that only together can justify a real historical reconstruction, and to get a good result you should try to be as faithful as possible to the reality of time, but otherwise is fatuous all the work.
Let's start by saying that talking about fashion in ancient Rome is perhaps a bit 'too generic as well: generic, Rome's history is long and each period has its specific powers that allowed new imports and thus implements fashion itself, too, because the word fashion shows variations in the use of clothing for a long time there have been.
actually cutting the typical Roman dress, for a long, long time, it was a simplicity and homogeneity between males and females to be disarming, except that there were many other special features which then used it in a very head symbolic and representative.
In the first period of Roman history, to almost 500 BC, Rome lived in its products as well as the limited achievements of the neighboring territories, and the availability of tissues was limited. The fabrics were of sheep's wool or vegetable fibers local wound with a skill that still leaves surprised, achieving a lightness stunning fabrics that were not a hindrance even in summer.
The cloth was a very well researched, especially if well-crafted, and the price also quite high, so often the clothes available were few and sewn directly by the owner, the matron, or where this was used by slave to this.
To this end, the cuts on the fabric was reduced to a minimum to maximum use of the patch available, which was used almost entirely in its width, to package the set of clothes that you need.
The clothing of the period were:
1. for the man tunic, of two types,
* subucula and the exterior, with leather tunic brought to you slept well and that was the underwear
* the toga which originates from the Greek cloak refine and develop the symbolic use as far as buying power to indicate the true Roman.
2. For the woman and a little more difficult to list, but we see in particular what it is. * A
skin, women wore a strophium (the Greek) or mamillary , or pectoralis fascia, a kind of bra, and subligar, a kind of loincloth used by men and women, although it seems to have been worn more than other baths. *
tunic, very similar to male but with a neck circular or V-and extending as far below the left knee tunics in the cold periods of the year could be even two or three, always type subucula, that is intimate or skin, could have a little piece of the sleeve, even if such use of the sleeve seems rather late. * Over
you could put a amictus, a surcoat that was going to hide his clothes and intimate that it was very similar to but longer tunic.
* In early Rome the women wore the toga as men, as reported by Varro in one of his writings, but soon came the costumes and the distinguished toga was imposed only on women as a sign of immodesty or loose morals.
* Above this was placed the stole: a long and wide was a kind seamless tube of fabric on top. It was fastened to the shoulders and arms with cameos and brooches, which also helped the voluminous folds, which covered and decorated the woman's body. The stole was a piece of clothing that showed the rank of the wearer was wealthy and most decorated and most who took her order and was high class. At its edge was placed a rim, the Institute, but for which you know the presence but not the thickness, as some authors refer to it as a tenuous sorting while others qualify as longa.
* To model the stole on the body to use an cingulum, a belt that could be made of cloth, leather or natural fibers, smooth or decorated with semiprecious stones or metal objects, especially in the late Roman period, and passing around the body and stared at the scarf around the breasts and shape the figure. The seat belt use was absolutely required, so that only criminals and prostitutes were using (and they were scantily defined ) while he was relieved the pregnant (pregnant fact) but still often resorted to a strip of tissue taken under the breasts, also known as zone. * To cover all
Finally, the outputs, the matron of the period more remote could use the ricinium, a simple square cloak he carried over his shoulders, and perhaps on the head. This garment was in time replaced by ball. * The folds of
were basic, but more important were the folds of ball, a rectangular cut of cloth that covered the woman completely, including the head, and which surrounds the body with different folds and returns required to arms. It was very important and rich, so that often a slave was employed to care of the folds of the fabric even when the matron was a walk to avoid all be spoiled and become inconvenient.
As I said before, the stuff from which all this was the initial stroke was made of sheep's wool or some vegetable fibers, including one local species of flax cultivated by the Etruscans, and was processed more or less severe depending on the period in which he was to be worn.
With the progress of the Roman conquests were many fabrics that went to add to these, and were especially requested by the highest social classes. First came the linen from Egypt, and with the imperial era arrived in the tissues of cotton and silk, because both expensive imported directly from India and China. In colder regions, which are also used fur coats are packaged or beading, or felt, both in shoes and hats to clothing.
always remember, however, that the fabrics were a valuable asset and, therefore, apart from not having a large number of leaders and often, in the case of less wealthy families, the weaving their paintings, only the rich had the guise of refined fabrics, only the noble family of the Emperor or the wealthy could afford silk or Indian cotton, while the other wealthy families had to settle for linen, which was more expensive than cheap.
The commoners, however, the middle class or lower middle and had worked fine wool, or hemp, which were also made the tunics for the slaves, or jute. Let
to consider the colors that were used in clothing.
In the Republican era, the only colors that can be found are those of natural tissues and the colors of wool wash and fill with special procedure using ammonia in them.
With the progress of the achievements, there is an enrichment in this field, both for the study and use of substances in the area, as they teach the Etruscans (and they were considered the most versed in fashion), extremely rich in decorations and of accessories, both for the import of substances that those tissues. The color
prince in Roman history, and it is understood that the description also gave the color was purple, imported by the Phoenicians, and its preparation requires the processing of a particular shellfish, the Meurice, but needed large amounts of animals to produce a small amount of color. For this reason the clavus, the purple color band indicating membership in a particular order, it was something extremely expensive to obtain.
fabric dyeing was practiced mainly in the Middle East, although with different characteristics: the true masters of the dye were the Egyptians, who dyed linen with colors derived from different plants: the henna, the color of which was also used in cosmetics to dye your hair, safflower, which were obtained from the yellow and red, saffron, which gave life to yellow in varying degrees, while the blue was extracted from certain species of Indigofera from lapis lazuli and some salts. The Chinese
silk dyed with safflower (yellow and red), blueberry (blue and purple), the sumac (yellow) and indigo, but also with other natural colors whose provenance is still a fascinating mystery.
Ancient Italic peoples were aware of dyeing techniques using commercial traffic: so, Tarantino became experts in dyeing with purple and oricello, a lichen, the Etruscans used madder, crayon, the ford and saffron .
In Rome, abandoned the crude austerity of the founding fathers of the Republic, in the second century BC, the dye was so advanced that there were different guilds depending on the substances used for dyeing textiles: the Crocearii (yellow) Violarii the (purple), the Officinae Purpurinae (purple).
The colors most commonly used in Rome were made from the blue, mauve, yellow, made from Reseda, turmeric and broom, browns and blacks, derived from walnut.
In the most recent period, you buy the use to decorate the edges of the balls with tone on tone designs, geometric motifs, animals or human bodies, but stylized, while the rich have always had the ability to use edges decorated with wires gold and silver but only the edges.
finally shut with a quick overview on the types of footwear used.
You should always think that the fashion of the Romans from the beginning was strongly influenced by both Greeks and Etruscans, two populations far more advanced in style and quickly absorbed by the nascent Roman culture.
The skin had a thriving regional during processing so as to require the presence of a corporation, that of Coriarii, a prelude of what will then form back into the Middle Ages. The Coriarii were specialized in tanning with various substances, such as alum, various fats and vegetable matter.
The Romans were the first shoes of Solae, primitive sandals made from leather soles fastened to the leg to fix and which later became the home as Socci shoes, hiking boots of felt. Then
taste became more sophisticated, and the Romans used to exit the Calcei, high-heeled shoes, with a thickness of about 5cm, with uppers of soft leather that covered the entire foot. The sides of each sole party of the broad stripes that were crossed and knotted on the back foot while others were more subtle heel and wrap ankle where they were tied with the ends hanging decorated with ivory jewelry, crescent-shaped.
Women often wear a kind of flip-flops, like the krepis Greek sandals or alternatively, the crepidulae, adopted especially by the upper classes and trained by a series of strips of leather that covered the entire foot and ankle in Depending on the richness and elevation of rank could be more or less decorated, even up to have the soles of gold or silver. Also wore shoes similar to flat shoes, without heels. Another type of sandals were urinae, cowhide fill.
Farmers and commoners wore clogs or perones, sole shoes without heel, leather upper with high ankle tied to the back of the foot and buckles with strings and that could be worn barefoot or with a kind of felt socks.
proletarian slaves and wore wooden clogs, the sculpoeae, while the peasants could have also Adonis, rectangular blocks with long leather straps that ensured the calves protected by pieces of wool or felt.
At the time of the late empire matrons adopted the golden sandals or boots with calf leather fastened.
The Roman shoes could be polished with beeswax and colored with saffron for yellow, iron salts or tannins for black, woad (Isatis tinctoria) for blue and purple or oricello (Rocella tinctoria) to red (typical footwear most luxurious).
The uppers were sewn together with linen and soles with leather straps, twisted sinew or gut.
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